An Octoberfest of art, music, festivals and more, plus lewd showbiz gossip, more absolute truths from Mrs. Edo-san and a miserable example of the Internet boom.

DISPATCHES Michael Stanley Even if you're looking for danger among the lions of Gujarat, you don't always get what you want. THE BIG PACHINKO Mark Schreiber An Osaka author's best-selling book debunks publications by conspiracy theorists, anti-Semites and just plain wackos. MEMOIRS Donald Richie Do literary figures have more penetrating experiences than the rest of us? Perhaps--if this 1958 travelog is any indication. STYLE Lucas Badtke-Berkow Welcome to tomorrow's Tokyo chic, from the radical minds at the city's top fashion institute.

OYAKO photograph by Bruce Osborn

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Bit by Byte
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When computers and creative minds go bump in the night, a whole new industry can emerge. How new technology in animation is changing the way you see things--if you're watching cartoons, that is.

How to Hype
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Requiem for a Neighborhood
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CONTRIBUTORS

What's on in Tokyo this month. Full listings and commentary

Art by Cheryl Chow The method behind the selection of Living National Treasures: the highest honor for traditional arts and craftsmen. Performing Arts by Gilles Kennedy Director Yukio Ninagawa's choice for his new Hamlet is Japan's answer to Sly--action star Hiroyuki Sanada. Music by Mark Robinson Hard rockers Friction turn out their first album in seven years--and it's worth the wait. Film by James Bailey Like the King himself, Japan's answer to Elvis lives on. Food by John Kennerdell Spend the last days of warm weather at these fine outdoor spaces. Area Spotlight A special extended spotlight on Harajuku and Aoyama.

Survival by Dan Papia Tsukiji's fish market isn't the only wholesale area. A guide to the best of the rest. Nightlife by Phil Miller Vampire Phil is out looking for a Halloween feast, partying with the Prodigy and other nocturnal animals. For Kids >For the kid who wants a career head start--a selection of field trips to companies and institutions. Events Well worth seeing: the College Women's Association of Japan's annual print show. Festivals Feeling macho? Try flexing on a log roll and see where you get off. Books by Richard Lloyd Parry Codename Downfall: The Secret Plan to Invade Japan. Back Home --