The very best of Tokyo's food, film and fun this month, plus tabloid scandal, rainy season manga, helpful tips from Mrs. Edo-san and big trouble for a sleazy pol named Tosh.

Charlie Whipple
Mock the Imperial Family? Announce that the war-dead "died like dogs"? A close-up of the Tokyo weekly which dares to be bold.


Oyako photograph by Bruce Osborn


The Conversation: Masao Miyamoto
by Chris Redl

A prominent ex-bureaucrat tells how the system really works and how a loud mouth, loud clothes and a loud car got him tossed from the rarified heights of officialdom.


Subway Mania
by Mark Robinson

Got your ticket? Come on in and mind the doors! Everything you ever wanted to know about Tokyo's underground but were too squashed to ask.


The Naked City
by Abigail Haworth

Religious cult Aum spent years amassing weapons and lethal chemicals behind the authorities' backs. The cult may have lost its war in Tokyo, but the vulnerability it exposed is harrowing.

Art
Ralph Kiggell

Desert heat from a black South African, a Japanese installationist and a Chinese gunpowder artist.


Performing Arts
Gilles Kennedy

Director Tadashi Suzuki delivers one of our best theater festivals, even if it is far out of town.


Music
Mark Robinson

There's more to local foreign bands than cover-versions, but original musicians tread a rocky road.


Film
Mark Schilling

Kamikaze comedians and other war films of this anniversary year.


Area Spotlight
It's a short hop to sacred Kamakura, where there's plenty more than temples.


Food
John Kennerdell

Secrets of the city; three fine French restaurants in residential neighborhoods.


Night Life
Helen Smith

Raving on. Helen hasn't slept in months, but you'd never ever know it.


Survival
Dan Papia

Travels with your tongue--where to find international delicacies right here and right now.


Festivals
The "Rain-stopping Ritual" of downtown Omori-machi.

For Kids
Whooa! One-stop-satisfaction for water slides, roller coasters and teeming schools of fish.


Events
Slugging it out under the sun--the baseball season has some punch left in it yet.


Books
Andrew Marshall

Does Kenzaburo Oe's Nobel prize open or close an era for Japanese literature?


Back Home --