The pick of the bunch from Tokyo's art, events and music this month. Plus Mrs. Edo-san tells it like it is, a soccer brawl brews in the Sea of Japan, eavesdropping with Charlie Whipple and NHK hits a foul off Nomo.

DISPATCHES by Ilaria Maria Sala The Beijing authorities wanted the prestige of hosting the UN women's conference. But now they're worried about all that comes with it. THE BIG PACHINKO by Andrew Marshall Domestic publishers find new markets with best-selling how-to guides about death, revenge, disappearance and extortion. MEMOIRS by Donald Richie A surreal sunrise takes place on a Chiba beach during the O-bon days of 1947. STYLE Lucas Badtke-Berkow Christopher Nemeth is a Tokyo-based designer with an eye for simplicity and a knack for mischief.

OYAKO photograph by Bruce Osborn

RECOMMENDATIONS

The Conversation : Teiji Furuhashi
by Carol Lutfy

Theater that is radical, comical and challenging is the
hallmark of Teiji Furuhashi and his performance group,
dumb type. A rare discussion with the soft-spoken
performer/director on the themes of sexuality, stereotypes
and AIDS.

Overnight Sensation
by Steve McClure

When 45,000 rich, raving, scantily dressed girls flock to
your annual dance events, you can bet you've got a
good thing going. Avex Group is the powerhouse
pushing the limits of the dance/disco phenomenon.

The Gangster with the Golden Touch
by David Kaplan

The late boss of the crime syndicate Inagawa-kai
entered the financial world of Japan's corporate giants
and walked away with billions. So who controls the
legacy of Susumu Ishii, gangland's most brilliant
businessman?

CONTRIBUTORS

What's on in Tokyo this month. Full listings and commentary

Art by Azby Brown Sergio Duran, Tokyo's stoic, off-beat architect, wins a much-coveted international award. Performing Arts by Gilles Kennedy Controversy hits the stage in the challenging New York dance production Still/Here. Music by Mark Robinson Here, now and hot . . . the '70s! Film by James Bailey The Diary of Anne Frank is now a Japanese cartoon. A meeting with the film's controversial Jewish scriptwriter, Roger Pulvers. Food by John Kennerdell Buono! Buono! Two of Tokyo's best Italian eateries. Area Spotlight The hippest mix of old and new: Daikanyama and Naka-Meguro.

Survival by Dan Papia Feeling sluggish? Get a sporting start by buying the right gear. Nightlife by Phil Miller Casing streets and hustling clubs with insomniac Phil. For Kids Trade that too-small baby suit for something better--with this guide to secondhand clothing stores. Events Lost in space? Relive the moon landing at a special NASA exhibit. Festivals Used dolls get a traditional, religious send-off in Ueno Park. Books by Richard Lloyd Parry Looking for the Lost, Alan Booth's last book. Back Home --