Mrs. Edo's back with rosy cheeks and a new attitude! Plus the pick of this month's art, food and entertainment, a kinky cartoon, and Charlie Whipple's Loose Talk

DISPATCHES Bertil Litner Why drug king Khun Sa's surrender may have been his best career move yet--and a blow to the war on heroin. THE BIG PACHINKO Debra Gardner She was tall, blond, bored at work and ready for anything...almost anything. Neighborhood Watch William Yoshimura A religious cult not named Aum has allegedly swindled believers out of millions of yen--preying on the guilt from abortions.

OYAKO photograph by Bruce Osborn

RECOMMENDATIONS

The Conversation: Mansai Nomura
by Mayumi Nakazawa

He's brash, young and worldly. One of Japan's foremost figures in the ancient performing art of kyogen talks about family business, heavy metal and climbing inside the horse's mouth.

Tokyo Menagerie

by Dan Papia

It's a zoo out there. Here's a footloose romp with this city's beasts--a nose-to-tail guide to Tokyo's pets, including that stuff on your shoe.

Between a Rock and a Hard Place
by Joji Sakurai

When City hall calls in more than 800 battle-ready cops to fight 200 of Tokyo's homeless, it's not just over-reaction. A full report on two groups of people with different points of view.

CONTRIBUTORS

What's on in Tokyo this month. Full listings and commentary

Performing Arts by Brett Johnson Extreme measures: director Takeshi Kawamura and the fringe group Daisan Erotica. Art by Louis Templado Simon Yotsuya may not call his dolls "art," but his unsettling figures are right at home in Tokyo's galleries. Music by Mark Robinson Sharp and savvy, real-time club music from Buffalo Daughter--is Tokyo's next big thing? Film by James Bailey Slated to be entered in this year's Cannes film festival, Yoshimitsu Morita's Haru is a real pleasure. Food by Robbie Swinnerton Up-market yakitori; a relaxing neighborhood taverna; and imported-beer pubs make a splash. Area Spotlight Nishi Azabu--stylish, convenient and not stuck-up.

Survival It's time to brush up on your Japanese. Handy hints for schools and others that help. Nightlife by Phil Miller Phil toasts the Ides of March. For Kids Babysitters--a list of pros who know what to do. Events Don't miss the three-month run of the spectacular Cirque du Soleil. Festivals A treat for hot feet: do the fire-walk at Mt. Takao. Books by Richard Lloyd Parry and Cheryl Chow The Modern Madame Butterfly, by Karen Ma Back Home --