Ignore the early winter chill. We've got red-hot art, music, dining and drinking, plus international ramen and a mad, mad manga. As always Whipple heard it first, and the indubitable wisdom of Mrs. Edo-san.

DISPATCHES Gwen Robinson You don't have to be a stoned out hippy freak to enjoy the Kodo drum festival on Sado Island--but you have to love `em. THE BIG PACHINKO Brian Haverty A frustrated jokester tries his mouth at Tokyo's newest fad, stand-up comedy. Neighborhood Watch Charles Whipple How one of the world's most densely populated, heavily concreted cities can still find room for farmland--just. STYLE Lucas Badtke-Berkow Ear candy for the masses. The headphone as haute couture.

OYAKO photograph by Bruce Osborn

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CONTRIBUTORS

What's on in Tokyo this month. Full listings and commentary

Art by Sarah Rooney Thai artist Vasan Sithiket is the current darling of the Asian media--Thailand's very own court jester with a conscience. Performing Arts by Gilles Kennedy Performers are the product at Asia's first stage arts display, called, pragmatically enough, Tokyo Performing Arts Market. Music by Mark Robinson Okinawa's fastest rising star has attitude to burn. Film by James Bailey Are the days of untalented, dyslexic idols a thing of the past? Food by John Kennerdell Simmering Korean and spicy dishes from the subcontinent in John K's last column. Area Spotlight The nooks, crannies and skyscrapers of Western Shinjuku.

Survival by Dan Papia Lose the weight you gained from fine pastries and pickled sea urchin with this handy guide to dieting. Nightlife by Phil Miller Have you heard the one about ecstasy and the billygoat? Ask Phil. For Kids Take them higher, to the tops of Tokyo's tallest structures. Events Egyptian BBQ, Tibetan jewelry and World Music at the World Spice Int'l. Music, Dance, Cuisine, Arts & Crafts Festival. Festivals Tales from the grave at the Haniwa Sai near Narita. Books by Peter Tasker The Voice of Asia, by Mahathir Mohamad and Shintaro Ishihara. Back Home --